By Crafty Owl
By Crafty Owl
Marie Segal,Cindy Celusta and Shelly Cominski
©2001 Polyform Products
Tips for Using Molds
Tip: "To get the accurate amounts of material to put in a mold, use a milliliter graduate and measure the dislacement of the original, or use a small clear bottle with a mouth just large enough to take the original - ie. take a cylindrical olive jar. Fill it half way to top with water. Use a piece of masking tape so the edge equals the water level. Drop in a bead or any object from which you've made from a mold. Mark the new water level with another tape. Remove the bead without removing any water. The amount of poly clay it takes to raise the water to your second mark is exactly how much clay is needed. Any irregular shape object will do the same. Always keep the cylinder container as narrow as allowable, so there will be a more noticeable difference."
Tip: "I made a mould the other day that has turned out beautifully. Take one of those rubber thumb or finger things that you use in sewing, the ones that have lots of little bumps all over them, like tiny weeny little seed beads have been glued all over it then covered in rubber.... and put it on your finger and press it evenly into a small round flat piece of elasticlay. Don't push it too far down-about 1/2 or 3/4 of a cm- then when you've baked it you can push a black (or any colour) bit of clay into it, trim up the back so that its perfectly even with the flat mould edges, and then tip it out.... what you are left with is a perfect imitation of a silver bali bead cap!! Obviously you can put silver whatever on it to make it look silver!!("
From Madeline Nupp
Tip: "Face molds can be kind of expensive, but toy figurines at a discount store are not. I've made many face molds from action figures found at outlet stores for only $1 or $2. I prefer to use the flesh tone Super Sculpey for the molds. As for release angents, I'll be honest, I've never needed one when using the Super Sculpey."
From Jeanna Carroll
Tip: "You can make your own semi-flexible molds using Sculpey Flex. Sculpey Flex gets VERY sticky so don't overwork it at all. If it does get sticky and your object to be molded is already firmly in the clay, pop it in the fridge for quite a while before you try to remove it or it WILL distort badly.Don't forget your release agent. I read earlier in this site that Downy Wrinkle releaser is a better release agent than cornstarch or Armor All. It allows for fine detail and evaporates, leaving no residue on the clay(Lesa Dill-Finishes section). Armour All is known to leave a residue, which when baked is not compatible with Future. I don't know about Flecto but they are both acrylic. Future will just roll off of a piece that has had Armor All on it.Plain water is a good release agent."
From Anna Hill
Tip: "I like to make molds that can go through the pasta machine by painting several layers of latex rubber over a texture I want to use for mica shift. I have used seed beads glued down, thread and other stuff. You can also make an impression in a sheet of clay, say of some leaves, bake it and then paint it with the latex to have a cool texture sheet to roll through your pasta machine."
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