wire or 16-18 gauge wire
Cotton fabric craft egg or make one of your
own with foil. size: 5cm (2in) high and 4cm
(1 1/2in) wide.
Wire cutting tool
Papertape (masking tape)
About 400 grams (14oz) any skin color
About 500 grams (17.5oz) of another color of
your choice for the tentacles. I used green
Acrylic eyes (or make your own out of clay)
1 set of false eyelashes
Jewelry glue or clear silicone caulking
Pasta machine for making sheets of clay
Glass jar or marble rolling pin if you don't
have a pasta machine.
PART 1: THE FRAME
I made this doll I first searched for octopus
pictures so I knew what their tentacles looked
Pick up the wire and cut in the
1 - 14cm (5 1/2in)
1 - 25cm (10in)
6 - 31cm (12in)
Bend about 3cm (1in) of one end of
each of the 6 long wires.
tape, secure the bent end of the long wires to
one end of the shortest wire. Spread them out so
they point in six different directions.
about 3cm (1in) from the other end of the
shortest wire, place the middle wire so it
resembles a cross and tape it.
on the picture for a closer look.
tentacle and body wires meet, shape the
"hips" of your Octomaid with foil. Then
form the body with foil from the hips to the
neck. When making your foil foundation, be sure
to pack it on very tight by pressing hard so
there will be no movement when the clay is
applied to it.
shaping the foil, wrap it in paper tape so the
clay will hold better.
from Sunni: You do this by squeezing the clay on
all sides. If you are using Fimo, it will
crumble. Continue pressing, squeezing, kneading
and "smooshing" the clay until it
softens and becomes pliable. Don't be gentle!!
Get aggressive with it! Roll it into a ball and
then a snake. Fold it back on itself and smash
back into a ball. Roll it hard to work out any
bubbles and lines, then roll it back into a
snake, fold it back on itself and roll back into
a ball again. Do this until you can bend the
snake and no cracks or fissures appear on the
stressed side of the fold. At this point, the
clay should be ready. If you have difficulty
getting the clay to soften, add a couple drops of
Sculpey diluent or mineral oil to increase
|PART 2: THE HEAD
In Holland, there are craft eggs
made from cotton fabric. I use a
"cotton" egg for the head, it's better
than a Styrofoam [or plastic] egg because it
doesn't melt in the oven. Using tightly packed
foil for the foundation is just as good. So, make
your head in an egg shape with the measurements
shown at the top of this page.
Roll a big slice of clay two setting
down from the thickest out of your pasta machine.
Hand rolling, about the same thickness as five
sheets of typing paper.
sheet on your work surface and the head in the
middle of the clay sheet.
When I sculpt the head I stick it on a pin, a
sculpting tool or a knitting needle to hold in my
hands. I never hold the head directly in my
hands. This helps eliminate fingerprints and
keeps the features from being accidentally mashed
by straying fingers.
clay over the head and pinch the flaps up against
the foundation. Cut the flaps away and blend the
clay so it is smooth.
[Note from Sunni: Do
not pull and push the clay, roll your finger or
tool back and forth and, while applying firm
pressure, smudge the seam ever so slightly. This
prevents unnecessary stress on the clay and helps
Roll a ball of flesh clay so it is
about 3.5cm (1 1/2in) big and cut it in two
on the picture for a closer look.
two halves so they're a little longer, making one
also a little wider. The narrower one will be the
forehead while the wider one will be the lower
half of the face. They should wrap no more than
halfway around the head and be separated about
.5cm (1/4in) where they eyes will go. Now you get
a basic of the face.
Using your favorite sculpting tool,
work the lines away and blend them together by
rolling it back and forth. When you have sculpted
the lines away, you push the eyeholes in it with
a sculpting tool.
small ball of clay and cut it into two pieces for
the mouth. You roll a little log from the two
halves of clay and push one side flat. From this
you shape the upper and lower lips.
the knife, cut a line where you will have the
Lay the mouth pieces on each side of
the cut and blend them into the head. Shape the
mouth to be open, smiling, frowning or whatever
suits your desires.
the tip of a sculpting tool into the clay just
above the upper lip to make the indentation that
goes under the nose.
Take another piece of clay and roll
that in a ball. You judge the size depending on
the kind of nose you want. Now roll the ball into
a teardrop shape. Then, with your fingernail,
push the big end of it up to give you a nose.
Blend the nose onto the doll head
and make the nose holes in it.
Now you put
the acrylic eyes in the eyeholes and set them so
they're looking in the direction you want them.
You can also make your own eyes from one of the
translucent clays and paint the pupil later
before you do the make up.
Roll two very little logs and place
them under the eyes. Roll two bigger logs that
are thicker in the middle and pointed on the
ends. Place these on the top of the eye. Blend
them all into the head.
must make a little space for the eyelashes on the
upper lid. With your sculpting tool, slice or
press a fine line indented so it is halfway from
the top of the eyelid to the eye.
You can also make closed eyes. Roll
out a ball of clay and cut it in half. Make the
halves almond shaped and press them onto the
eyes. Blend them into the head.
a little space for the eyelashes.
|Now is when you can give
your doll some character. This is where you add
wrinkles or shape the face and cheeks to make the
doll look more like your mental visual. If you
are going to give the doll short hair, you will
want to add the ears at this time. There are no
ears in this lesson because the doll will have a
lot of hair.
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