After years of procrastination, we finally decided that there would be no perfect time, nor place. The First Annual Polymer Clay Teachers’ Retreat, hosted by Karen Murphy and organized by Lindly Haunani took place the third week of August, 1999. There were 17 talented and enthusiastic teachers present--yet only a fraction of the teaching community. The following is a summary of our focus discussions...

There were 6 discussion areas:

• Teaching Tips
• Primer
• Generosity vs. Territoriality
• Interfacing with the Community
• Product Development
• Artistic Statements

• Group brainstorm critiques
• Exchanging ideas
• Roasting marshmallows
• Eating incredible food
• Polymer play
• Demonstrations

Sandpaper comes in numbered grits, with lower numbers being coarser than high numbers. The numbers correspond with number and size of grit per square inch.

150 grit - very coarse, cuts through and removes a lot of clay very quickly
220 grit - removes lots of clay
320 grit - removes clay
400 grit - approximately the same grit as polymer clay - removes some clay
600 grit - polishes clay surface
1000-2000 grit - found in auto supply stores, polishes clay to a very smooth surface

Hint - The surface of ordinary brown grocery bags is similar to 400 grit sandpaper.

Keep your piece and your sandpaper wet and rinse frequently with clean water. Sand in a circular motion - do not always sand in the same direction. Remove sanding sludge from any crevices before re-baking or it will bake into the clay permanently. Faster sanding is possible by partially baking your piece at 210-220 degrees for 15 minutes, then sanding. Support your piece very carefully since partially baked clay is soft and fragile. 400 grit sandpaper cuts partially baked clay like 320 grit cuts fully cured clay. Sand up to 600 grit, make sure all sludge is removed, and rebake for the normal time and temperature. Baking will remove sanding marks. A light sanding can be done after baking.

BUFFING:

!! Warning !! - Buffing can be dangerous. Follow safety instructions carefully.

Bolt your bench grinder to a stable surface. Put an open box behind the wheel to catch buffing residue. Wear a mask - buffing produces lots of fine dust.

Tie your hair back and remove any loose dangling jewelry. Tuck in your clothes. Wear protective eye gear - the buffing wheel is capable of snatching things out of your hands and flinging them away at a high speed.

If you drop something, turn the machine off and wait till the wheel stops before bending over to pick it up. Do this even if two people are buffing at the same time. It’s better to inconvenience your partner than get something caught in the wheel.

If you follow safety rules, buffing should go smoothly. Use either unstitched muslin or a cotton flannel wheel. Use bare wheels, no buffing compound.

Set your wheel at about medium speed. Grip your piece firmly and place it lightly against the lower front quadrant of the wheel. Use a gentle circular motion, keeping the piece moving and making sure all of the surface is buffed evenly. If you press too hard into the wheel, it can cut grooves into your clay and friction heat can begin to melt the surface.

Hint - Some people buff clay work on their jeans instead of using a buffing wheel.